Guide To Oaxaca

About Oaxaca

The state of Oaxaca (pronounced "wa-hah-ka") is one of Mexico's richest States in terms of history, culture, archaeology and ecology.

This area of Mexico was given to Hernan Cortes after the Spanish Conquest, in return for his services to the Spanish Crown. It was also the home of Benito Juarez, originally a servant-boy to an affluent family, who was to become President of Mexico, and one of Mexico's most revered historical characters.

When the Spanish moved in during the 16th Century, Oaxaca City grew into a semi-prosperous colonial city; the most populous and important city in the south of Mexico. The city was nearly destroyed by an earthquake in 1854, and it wasn't until the era of Porfirio Diaz that the city began to properly rebuild and start to grow again.

Oaxaca hosts some of Mexico's most vibrant natural terrain. From tropical forests, to high mountains, lush arable valleys; breathtaking rugged Pacific coastland and quiet coves offering tranquil beaches with soft sands. It would take weeks to see all of Oaxaca, and you would need to use a variety of transport methods - including hiking and horseback - to get deep into the beautiful backcountry.

Black clay pottery and textiles are famous here: both crafts are a local practice - and Oaxaca pottery especially, is known and sought-after throughout Mexico. Oaxaca is an indigenous area; and if you want to buy some of the best craftwork you are ever likely to find in Mexico, Oaxaca is the place to go.

Oaxaca exhibits features that give this distinct location a mature character interlaced with a unique vibrancy – reasons why it is so highly spoken of by the people who know it.

The eternal Mexico is embodied in Oaxaca: deep indigenous roots interweave with colonial flair: the result is a cultural and historical vibrancy which is as emotive as it is unique.

Oaxaca City offers a blend of experiences and attractions, including a charismatic historical colonial center with cobbled streets, striking architecture, quiet plazas, and a fine central square often filled with soft sounds created by local musicians serenading people as they rest under the shade of its trees, and to those taking some time to enjoy fine coffee and quiet conversation at one of the cafés.

Nearby, you'll find an abundance of attractions (see below) – including El Tule – the 2,000-year-old living tree.

Monte Alban, and Mitla, two of Mexico's primary archaeological parks are also near here; you can discover them individually with Mexperience.

If you want to seek out the roots and heart of Mexico - then you'll find them both in Oaxaca. This is a place to come to when you're hungry to explore the 'undiscovered Mexico'.

People who come to Oaxaca keep coming back. Every time they return, they see something new in what they already know - and know that they'll find something brand-new to experience as well.

Ask any Mexican about Oaxaca and the first thing they'll usually tell you is that it's 'the soul of Mexico'. It is true that Mexico's roots and heart extend from here; but to understand why it's called so, you'll need to come and feel the atmosphere, smell the air and absorb the culture.

There is no other way to experience Oaxaca than to be here and know yourself what it means to have been touched by its distinctive vibrancy.

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Key Attractions

Colonial Center

Oaxaca city is a well preserved, charming and vibrant colonial city. The city center has been restored in recent times. The city is host to some of the most important colonial buildings in Mexico and these are protected by INAH, the government body responsible for securing the country's heritage.

The center of town around the Zocalo (Main Plaza) is completely closed off to traffic, and cafes and restaurants that surround the tree-line square make a perfect setting for a relaxed drink or two while enjoying the sun, and watching the world go by.

The city's Cathedral, which was finished in the 18th Century is just north of the Zocalo and features some stunning stone carvings on its front facade.

The old Palacio de Gobierno (Government Palace) is on the south side of the Zocalo and features some great architecture both inside and out. The seat of local government has moved out of the historic building to an out-of-town location. As a result the impressive palace is being converted into a museum and cultural center.

To see a French-style indoor theatre, go to the Teatro Macedonio Alcala, built in 1903. You'll find it on Av. 5 de Mayo and Independencia. The theatre has seating for over 1,300 people on 5 tiers and features an impressive marble staircase.

One of Oaxaca's most impressive looking churches, and often seen in photographs promoting the city, is the Iglesia de Santo Domingo. The church was originally a Dominican Monastery; the internal decor is quite brilliant. In the evenings, the inside of the church is illuminated by soft candlelight.

To see Oaxaca's oldest church, you'll need to walk about 2 blocks southwest of the Zocalo and find the Iglesia de San Juan de Dios. This is a simple church, built around 1521, and is very popular with the local people.

Museums and Art in Oaxaca

Oaxaca has many good museums, which is quite natural, given the rich culture, history and archaeology that Oaxaca has. A few of the main ones are listed here and you can get a complete listing from the local tourism office (see Practical Information).

Museo Regional de Oaxaca (Regional Museum of Oaxaca) - Among other historical treasures, this museum hosts artifacts from Monte Alban's Tomb No. 7 which contained corpses, jewelry and gold.

Rufino Tamayo Museo de Arte Pre Hispanico (Rufino Tamayo Museum of Pre Hispanic Art) - Rufino Tamayo (who was from Oaxaca) was also one of Mexico's most famous artists and this museum is collection of great pre-Hispanic art collected over a period of around 20 years.

Museo de Arte Contemporaneo de Oaxaca (Museum of Oaxacan Contemporary Art) - Is situated on the picturesque street of Alacala, includes collections from Mexico's most contemporary artists including Rufino Tamayo, Rodolfo Morales, Francisco Toledo, Rodolfo Nieto and others.

El Tule - 2000 Year-old Tree

There are buses every quarter of an hour from Oaxaca’s second-class bus station to Santa Maria del Tule - Home to Mexico's (and one of the world's) oldest living trees. You can read about El Tule and see pictures here in the In Mexico Diaries. The tree is just 20km (12 miles) away from Oaxaca City and makes an easy morning or afternoon trip.

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Getting There & Around

Getting There

By Air - You can fly to Oaxaca from the US and and other points in Mexico including Mexico City, and some other smaller regional airports in the south of Mexico. Connect to the Mexperience Travel Center for Airlines

By Bus - You can travel to Oaxaca on a luxury bus from Mexico City - the trip takes around 6 hours on the highway that connects Oaxaca City to Mexico's capital. Buses depart from Mexico City's eastern bus station (Central de Autobuses Oriente) and are frequent and plentiful, although pre-booking is advised during Mexican Holiday periods (see Busy times in Oaxaca, below). Connect to the Mexperience Travel Center for National Buses

By Car - Driving to Oaxaca is very fast and efficient now with a high-speed toll road which leads directly to the colonial city from the nation's capital. Take Highway 150 (Toll Road to Puebla) and keep going. The journey takes around 5 hours by car. See additional information about Driving in Mexico and Mexico's Toll Roads on Mexperience.

Getting Around

From the Airport - The airport is on Oaxaca's south side and it takes around 20-30 minutes to travel into the city center using ground transportation.

Taxis - Oaxaca's Taxis are not metered, so agree your price before you get in. Your hotel can arrange taxis for you; some post their rates on a board in the lobby. If you speak Spanish, you will have a distinct advantage and be able to negotiate a better price. Another good reason to Learn Spanish!

Rent a Car - Oaxaca is very accessible by road, and there is plenty to see and do in the surrounding areas - including two of Mexico's major archaeological parks - Monte Alban and Mitla. Renting a car would be a smart option if you're thinking about exploring this region in detail, as it will give you the freedom and flexibility to see more of the area and its surrounding attractions; however most of the surrounding attractions, including Monte Alban, Mitla and El Tule are accessible using local public transport. See the Mexperience Travel Center for Car Rental in Oaxaca

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Local Events Calendar

Major National Festivities are celebrated with vigor here and Oaxaca becomes very busy during Easter Week, Day of Dead (November), and Christmas. The other big festival is the Guelaguetza, a festival of colorful folk dancing and music, which takes place around the middle of July each year.

Book Ahead! If you plan to visit Oaxaca during one of the major festivals it's imperative that you book your transport and accommodation well in advance. Buses book up and hotels sell out during the festive periods.

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Practical Information

Telephone: Connect to the Communications in Mexico Page on Mexperience for full information about keeping in touch and the latest table of national dialing codes.

Exchanging Currency: Banks with ATM machines can be found downtown, with a row of banks and exchange houses on a road off the south side of the main plaza. During business hours, they and the local Casas de Cambio will buy traveler's cheques and cash from you as well. Read about money and currency exchange in Mexperience's Money Section.

Travel Insurance: We recommend that you are adequately covered with travel medical cover and/or travel assistance cover when you are visiting Mexico. Read the Mexperience guide to Travel Insurance in Mexico for full details and links to specialist insurance suppliers.

Road Between Oaxaca City and Huatulco: Highway 175, which is the connecting road between Oaxaca City and Huatulco is remote, rugged and very mountainous (see driving to Huatulco in 'getting there'). For security reasons, if you travel this road, whether by car or by bus, we recommend that you travel during daylight hours only. The best way to get Huatulco is by airplane from Mexico City or, in high season, from the USA. A tolled highway connecting Oaxaca City and Salina del Cruz, which will provide an alternate route to the Pacific (and access to Huatulco), is partly completed, although not fully open as yet.

Internet Access: Internet cafes are commonplace in Mexico - new ones open and old ones close all the time - but you won't have to look hard to find one downtown and in the main tourist areas.

Busy Times in Oaxaca: During religious holidays (Christmas and Easter) and the Guelaguetza festival in July (see Local Events Calendar, above), Oaxaca becomes very busy as Mexicans go on holiday in the region and many Oaxaqueños return home to their families for the holidays. If your travel plans involve visiting this area during these times be sure to book ahead, especially your accommodation. Find a Hotel in Oaxaca

Local Tourist Office: Connect to the Mexperience Travel Center for details of the nearest Tourist Information office.

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Accommodation

• Find a Hotel in Oaxaca

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Restaurants

We have no specific restaurant recommendations at this time.

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When Night Falls

Oaxaca has a selection of night spots to suit those looking for culture and those looking for a party.

Locally Hosted Parties - Check with yours and other Local Hotels about public parties they may be hosting during your stay. Traditional Mexican theme night parties are popular with the locals, and there's a chance you could join a really special night out - the real Mexican way, and certainly on the eve of September 16th - Mexico's Independence Day. Hosted parties usually include dinner, dancing, a show and / or live music (usually authentic Mexican Mariachis) plus all drinks for a fixed fee and are always excellent value for money! Ask at your hotel to find out what is happening locally.

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What to Buy in Oaxaca

Shopping for arts, crafts, textiles, pottery and wood carvings in Oaxaca is a real treat. The selection is immense and the quality and value is unbeatable.

Everything you buy in Oaxaca will be made in the surrounding towns and villages by artisans and crafts people living there. There are several markets in Oaxaca itself, as well as a plethora of craft shops and ambulant vendors.

The main market in the city is the Central de Abastos - the big day is Saturday, although you'll find activity there every day of the week.

The surrounding towns and villages also have their own markets, which specialize in a particular kind of product, e.g.: pottery, textiles, wood carving, cheese, local food, crafts, etc. Tours out to these markets can be arranged locally. Here are the locations, days and products:

Monday: Miahuatlan for bread, leather and mezcal.

Tuesday: Santa Ana del Valle for miscellaneous arts and crafts.

Wednesday: Etla for flowers, cheese and meats.

Thursday: Ejutla for textiles and mezcal.

Friday: Ocotlan for flowers, textiles and pottery.

Saturday: Oaxaca at the Central de Abastos (see above).

Sunday: Tlacolula for rugs, ceramics and Tlaxiaco for blankets and leather jackets.

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Local Climate

Oaxaca enjoys year-round, warm and dry weather (hot and humid on/near the coasts). The climate is ideal for taking part in a variety of outdoor activities and for taking in the local culture, architecture and scenery. Rains are seldom a feature here; when they do come they tend to be during the months of April thru November, but as with most monsoon areas, rains tend to be fierce and brief in the late afternoon, leaving the evenings dry and cooled off.

Live Weather Report:

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